DIY Oil Change - Mazda 2 Forum : Mazda 2 Revolution Forums
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post #1 of 15 Old 12-04-2011, 08:23 PM Thread Starter
CommanderBob
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DIY Oil Change

Hello again! I'm back for another overly detailed guide...

You will need:
1) 19mm Socket
2)


3) 6607 Oil Filter: Fram filters are ph6607 or tg6607 etc., we used a Fram Tough Guard
4) 4.4 quarts of 0w20 oil: usa spec, others may be different, we used


but http://www.amsoil.com/catalog.aspx?code=OEZQT-EA or anything else 0w20 is fine
5)


or


: small one is handy for putting used oil back into containers
6) Short/cut off bucket or


7) Floor Jack: You can always use ramps or the included tire-change jack, they are just a pain
8) Bag for trash and paper towels


Steps:

1) Gather all your tools and supplies. Nothing worse then draining your oil and finding out you don't have a filter

2) Warm up the car for a few minutes (3-5, the longer you go the faster the oil drains but the hotter it is and the more metal stuff might be hot)

3) Shut the car off, apply the emergency brake, and pop the hood with the latch where your left shin would be while driving

4) Jack up the passenger side, place the jack on the frame (the lip that is jutting down) between the two little bumps right behind the wheel. You don't need to raise it too much, the tire can stay on the ground. Be sure not to place the jack directly onto the side skirt. Consult your manual if you feel unsure, directions are in with changing a tire.



5) Slide under the car and use your 19mm socket to loosen and remove the drain bolt. I find it helps to break it loose first, then get the bucket ready and ratchet it out until I can spin it with my fingers. Caution: the used oil will come out fast at first, and may be hot. Also, be careful not to drop the drain bolt and washer into your oil bucket!







6) Let it drain for ~5min. The hotter the oil the faster it drains, but the more careful you have to be about hot parts and hot oil. Some people advocate letting down the jack to level out the car and possibly let more oil drain. If you do this, be careful that your drain pan isn't too tall!!!

7) Reattach the drain bolt, and snug it fully tight. You don't need to be hulk, but you certainly don't want it to pop out! Don't forget the washer.

8) Use your Filter Pliers to break loose the spin off oil filter. As soon as you break it loose, put the oil pan underneath it and spin it off slowly. At some point the oil will start coming out. It spins pretty far though.





9) Get your new filter out and apply fresh oil to the rubber gasket. Pour some oil into the filter. If you fill the filter, you only put ~4.1 Quarts in later. It is a pain to put a full filter back on, so I usually half fill it and put in slightly more oil (4.2 Quarts. 4.4 is the recommended max)




10) Spin it in place and snug it tight. I hand tightened mine pretty far, no pliers required.




11) Ensure your drain bolt and filter are tight, drag out your oil pan and any tools, and let your jack down


12) Fill your oil up. 4.1-4.4 Quarts depending how much you put into the filter. Use a funnel. They are ridiculously cheap, and you will slop it if you don't. Its the cap that says SAE 0w-20.



13) Clean up. Using a small funnel, we put the used oil into the now empty containers, and have an extra plastic bottle for leftovers. We take our used oil to Advance Auto Parts (buying oil there is EXPENSIVE though!) and I'm sure other places will take it too. Some people are willing to burn it for heating oil, just please don't dump it outside or down a drain. Be sure to clean off your filters and your pan!

Good Luck!

Last edited by CommanderBob; 12-04-2011 at 08:32 PM.
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post #2 of 15 Old 12-09-2011, 10:19 PM Thread Starter
CommanderBob
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GRRRRR I wish I could edit my post to fix the formatting of the list... Not sure when that got broken.
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post #3 of 15 Old 12-11-2011, 11:31 AM
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One cautionary item I will add though it isn't specific to the M2. When you pull the old oil filter, PLEASE make sure the rubber gasket comes off with the filter. You can easily tell by looking at the shiny part of the engine where the old one was attached...it should be nice and shiny.

I've seen two vehicles in my life where oil change places did NOT do this. So they double gasketed the filter and in both scenarios, the seals eventually blew causing the engine to lock up since the oil blew out so fast.

2011 Mazda 2 Sport 5-speed
2002 Mazda Miata 5-speed
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post #4 of 15 Old 12-13-2011, 05:15 PM
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Thanks a lot for posting this, it will help a lot of members save money!

I remember the first time I did an oil change on my old Toyota the filter was so stuck on I had to crush it with a pair of adjustable pliers to create a good grip and then turn it. LOL.

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post #5 of 15 Old 12-14-2011, 04:21 PM
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Are Fram filters good?

A buddy of mine uses Quaker State oil filters and stand by them. But I've also heard K&N Oil filters are some of the best around.
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post #6 of 15 Old 12-16-2011, 05:05 PM Thread Starter
CommanderBob
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Ehhh,

IMHO, They will all do essentially the same thing. I'm no mechanic, but from what I've heard/read you will rarely find problems due to filter or oil performance. It is more often from improper usage (ie not tightening filter, cross threading pan bolt, not putting bolt in, etc.)

There are people who swear by pretty much any brand out there. I use mobil1 oil pretty much exclusively, but I would assume most any fully synthetic will perform to the point where I don't notice the difference.


For anyone who really wants oil information, there is actually a VERY in-depth forum dedicated to it...

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/
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post #7 of 15 Old 01-20-2012, 10:10 PM
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Note: It is EXTREMELY dangerous to support a car with a hydraulic jack or the spare tire jack while you are under the car. It can give way in a split second and crush you, you don't stand a chance against a 2300 pound car laying on top of you. ALWAYS ALWAYS support the car with either jack stands or a set of ramps which are designed for supporting the car in the air. You can get either of these at any auto store for ~20 dollars. Don't be so cheap that you get yourself killed!
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post #8 of 15 Old 01-22-2012, 03:47 PM
haasfogle
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mazda 2 oil change. oversize filter

just changed the oil on my mazda 2 for the first time. it is ABSOLUTELY the easiest car ever to do this yourself. i have the luxury of a lift in my garage, but it would not be necassary for a slender boy or girl to do without jacking the car up.!
FYI to all is i used a purolator PL14610 which is much larger than the original filter. (this filter is tops in every test and i keep them on the shelf in my raceshoppe as they fit my wifes mazda 3 and some motorcycles i work on.)
i used mobil 1, 0W-20 and am planning a 10K mile change intervals.
cheers, haas
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post #9 of 15 Old 01-25-2012, 12:11 PM
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different filters?

First of all, I must say that changing the oil on this car is by far the easiest of all. I also have a toyota tacoma... and for some reason they stuck the filter in the middle of the engine area.... nearly impossible to get to.

For my 2 I literally can just reach under, just past the bumper to do everything. Don't even need to lift the car. Granted I am 5'4" and 100 pounds so I can basically fit anywhere.....

I'm due for my 3rd oil change and was wondering if anyone had any suggestions on brands of filters to use. I've tried fram and bosch but I really don't know enough to be able to tell a difference. Thanks!
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post #10 of 15 Old 01-25-2012, 09:13 PM
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Personally, I use Wix filters once I'm out of warranty. Short story - I had an issue with an oil starved engine due to a port being blocked with filter material. I had to fight GM over this issue since they must prove it was my non-OEM filter. While 99.9% of people will never be in that situation...I'll use OEM until out of warranty.

My local Mazda dealer sells me M2 filters for $20 for 4 filters. Decent price! I used my 4th filter this past weekend so time to buy more.

Lots of filter opinions on most forums. Most will probably work fine but I stay away from low-end such as Fram and store branded filters.

2011 Mazda 2 Sport 5-speed
2002 Mazda Miata 5-speed

Last edited by bananaboat; 01-25-2012 at 09:14 PM. Reason: spelling
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