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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hey guys

I have a 2006 mazda 2 with the 1.5 engine which is roughly the same one in the DE Mazda's 2007-2014.
Car has about 230,000km on the clock and recently after the engine gets hot I've noticed it starts pinging quite badly under load between 2000rpm - 2500rpm.
Anyway just after some pointers or if anyone had a similar issue with their DY or DE mazda.

So far this is what I've done or the car had done for regular maintenance.
Fuel and air filter and spark plugs changed about 7,000km ago
Resistance check on knock sensor seems ok. (still need to somehow to do a visual check for the "goo" leak issue)
I've tried a spare air flow/temp sensor
No DCT stored.

I'm yet to do a compression test and maybe swap the ignition coils and maybe run some higher octane gas eg 98 RON.

Any ideas would be appreciated..or experience.

I'm not too fussed and I can do most repairs myself as long as I don't have to spend to much money as I am currently awaiting a delivery of a new RAV4 Hybrid (I just don't know how long I have to wait)
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Bit of a update.

When I checked the knock sensor I did see the black/brown "ozzy" stuff has come from the sensor. So I thought I would replace it.
I did find the inlet manifold to have a lot of oily carbon build up, which I couldn't easily clean, but it wasn't really obstructing anything anyway. I did find the manifold o ring rubber gaskets to have gone hard, so I replaced those.
I also did a compression check and it seem ok. I get the following Cyl 1. 210psi and Cyl 2 to 4 all had 200psi.
So its all within spec.

I did notice the ECU does pickup the knock sensor values better than the old sensor, however the pinging is still there, however (still need to do further testing) the ECU might be adjusting it quicker when it hears pinging.
 

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2005 Mazda 2 DY 1.5L ZY-VE (Maxx)
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Have you tried removing the coolant cap and then putting it back on using pressure? I found this also helped with my overheating issue that lead to pinging. Was getting 75°+ on the intake runners just below the airbox. The cap seems to suffer from sealing issues but a little pressure helps fix the vaccume seal.
Link below on how to install:
Skip to 3:30


Make sure your coolant is filled, check to make sure you're oil isn't too thin, my mechanic recommended 10W 40, normally it would be 5W, but due to the hot climate here 10 is optional.

Are you using hybrid coolant? The green type.

I have a ZY-VE mazda 2 DY so i know the problem you are having. It seems to be common with these engines along with rod bearings/ con rod failure at higher power levels, basicly anything above stock.

If you have any other questions specific to DY i might be able to help out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The car doesn't over heat so I'm all good there. Oil is OK. I think in my case the issue is going to be, possibly the chain stretching a little bit when it's hot. Even the valve clearance as it does sound a little loud. But I'm definitely not gonna do the valve adjustment as it's a pain in the ass.
Next fuel tank I'll run a higher octane and see if it gets me out of trouble.
This car is only temporary until I get my rav4
 

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2005 Mazda 2 DY 1.5L ZY-VE (Maxx)
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I mean, it can be at 140°C and not overheat... mine can run pegged at 6k for over and hour and the airbox/intake runners will still be cold to the touch (at or slighly below ambient). Thats how its suppose to be.

you said your sparkplugs and everything is fine so the main thing i would think about is intake temp. And what im refering to by overheat is the engine and bay is heatsoaked. The engine itself is within running spec but the air being collected gets so hot it causes pinging. If im wrong about the issue your having please correct me.

Also have you tried using Shell 98? Vpower stuff. Seems to clean up the injectors and makes it run a lot smoother, could be small carbon buildup. Im fully aware of how expensive 98 is, $80 for a damn 37 tank is stupid, but if you can find any other cleaning stuff try it, i wouldn't recommend carbon cleaning, as your best option is to find a cleaning product and rev it non-stop for a few weeks. Keep it in low gears, rev it all the way to 5k then shift so that the next gear is still at 3.5k or higher otherwise you will get incomplete burn.

I did try to make a thread for you last week but mods denied the post so most of my ideas on how to help you got poofed out of existence.

If you can specify more details about your issue i will be able to help a lot more.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
when I check the coolant temp using forscan, it hardly ever goes over 100 degrees from memory. When I pulled the intake manifold off to change the knock sensor, yeah the intake runners where kinda "oily" or "carbonated" so to speak, I did try to clean it using throttle body cleaner but the oil was kinda baked on, so I left it at that. I also checked the motors for the intake runners, and they were working.

The pcr valve seemed to be working ok too.

Also when checking the intake temp and air flow, that seems ok too, I even swapped a spare MAF/intake temp sensor, and that didn't solve anything.
At the moment I have some liqui moly Fuel System Cleaner/Conditioner in the tank, and Ill put some 98 petrol when it comes to fill up.

I guess the exact time it pings, is for example after about 30 minutes driving when the engine has gotten hot, hot. Then it would roughly ping between 2000-2500rpm
 

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2005 Mazda 2 DY 1.5L ZY-VE (Maxx)
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Check your thomostat, might be closed?

Not a lot of things cause heat in the engine apart from a bad cooling system and excessive combustion temps.

Does your AC cool down the engine? Is the fan working properly? Is your radiator blocked or not functioning? Does your cooling system lack vaccume? How old is the coolant?


Also after 30 minutes your engine should still be warming up.... i can idle mine for 25 min and it only just gets upto temp, driving will take only like 7 minutes but it still shouldn't be hot hot after 30 minutes... after 2 hours of nonstop pegged at 5k when the ambient temp is 38°C maybe it would be warm.... but not hot.

Adding that into the statistics your cooling system is eaither not completely sealed, lacks coolant, or doesn't come to vaccume. I know how cold these engines run cause iv run it before with 0 coolant for 2 months nonstop pegged at 5k with no issues other then the engine feeling like its struggling to hold in a poop.

The engine never exceeded 60°C on the intake. Just having air in the system under vaccume is enough, but once you lose vaccume or seal my god do they cook.. so just check for any leaks and as i said, check that radiator cap. It seems simple but that small thing has big effects.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
the cooling system is fine, thermostat is fine. The radiator cap seems ok too. I don't know how old the coolant is but it all seems to check out as its not overheating and the coolant temp is ok when checking forscan. I also suspect the coolant was changed in the last few years as the colour and smell seems ok.

I did change the intake manifold rubber gaskets as they were pretty much "shot" so hopefully that has helped.
and the other day I also changed the spark plugs to the NGK ones.
I haven't been driving the car at all as at the moment I have access to another car. So after next week Ill see how it goes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
thanks. Yeah I just want to the car to survive for possibly and a maximum of 6 months (which by then Ill have my rav4).
Out of curiosity which city are you in Australia?
 

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2005 Mazda 2 DY 1.5L ZY-VE (Maxx)
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Cairns QLD, often drive out to port Douglas just for the sake of driving, also sometimes head out to atherton and milla milla, just nice long drives, only takes half a tank there and back...

Also don't worry about it surviving, from my experience the only thing that killes these engines is bad oil or a bad connecting rod. As long as your oils good you can peg it at 6k all day every day for the rest of time. Hell, i find the clutch wears faster then the oil does, got a new clutch last month, already feels light, probably wore it out in a way but it still grabs, not as hard but who cares. Im just a moron who loves beating the crap out of their stuff even if it cost me thousands in repairs....
 
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